Crab walks and layback cracks. Two styles I’m terrible at. They’re also the two styles that make up most of Erect Direction. Then add the Directissima nature of this route and the number of roofs that the rope needs to drag over and I find myself having a half hour adventure.

I absolutely LOVED this climb.

Bring far more runners (long runners) then I did up this beast and maybe double up a piece or two. Doesn’t matter which ones, you’ll need them all 😉
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21 COMMENTS

  1. One definitely needs to split the pitch off the grant traverse ledge into two, taking a hanging belay in the corner before the traverse left under the roof.  At the very least double ropes are a must for safety, lest one be unable to move as one is finishing the final pitch, which meanders first left, back right, then back left, not to mention the roof itself.
    The climber showed excellent control hanging from the lip of the roof after the traverse and protecting it.  One might be tempted to get on with it, but without that protection a full be quite serious, considering the protection under the roof might be less than bomber for holding a pretty hard fall with the last line of resort being the belayer in the corner.

  2. Props for leaving this one up and not just posting a refined version with better performance. We've all been there. I have noticed on quite a few of your videos that you pass really good hand jam rests in favor of laybacking in a much more strenuous position. You can do that because you're strong and have incredible endurance. Guys like me have to seek out creative rests and jam rests because I can't just hang on my grip forever. Looks like a really tough line and you did a good job despite some of the mistakes- all of which I think most climbers that plug gear and get gripped have made at some point.

  3. I'm a big fan of the raw videos with the falls, as well as the commentary. It helps me learn what to do, what not to do, and why you should or should not do something. As somebody who learns most of their technique primarily from youtube I appreciate the chance to see somebody talk through their decisions and point out their own mistakes. Kudos!

  4. Is there a reason for you to put your quickdraws in to the slinga of old CAMs stuck in the Wall? It seems that it Would be a lot safer to put it in to the actual loop of the cam since UV and general weather affect textile way more.

  5. Love the raw videos … I don't mind the naysayers. Too many people post clipped down clean music videos, I mean climbing videos 😉 I try to post up climbing videos that are all raw and often first attempts for me … I am sure I will cringe looking back at them a year from now 🙂

    The adventure is real in raw footage … You just can't capture the same emotion and struggles on later attempts.

    Keep it up. Oh and have you modified your gunks rack ? I am still using a double .2-3 and throw in nuts if I know a route could use them on occasion … But I also place two pieces for every one you do so lol

  6. great video! Was it a better stance sidepulling where there appears to be a bomber hand jam? at the pin you rested on it looks like theres a thank-god hand jam to sink your wrist into that could have given you some rest. dunno though, the video could be playing tricks on me

  7. Super.
    Good learning, eh?
    You lead full grades ahead of me on gear (and bolts) so it's bad form to talk smack. You seem to have a great mental game. I like the messy videos. They are loads more interesting. I totally think it's embarrassing when I make mistakes.

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